Porto Day 9. Tram, Funicular, Ocean and More…

Yesterday’s bus tour was so nice, we decided to enjoy Porto’s public/tourist transportation again! But not before breakfast in the hotel. Our complimentary breakfast in the hotel basement has been a standard affair. How can you pass up a free breakfast, especially when accompanied by an orange juicing machine and a coffee machine that quickly dispenses your choice of eight different coffee options? Yes, please!!! (We might need one of these at home….).

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 Our Yellow Bus Tour package consisted of unlimited access to two bus tour routes, two days of tram access and one ride on the funicular. What a deal! We planned an early start to take full advantage of our tour package. There is an Army saying that the first casualty is the plan. Our plan became a casualty when Kevin actually purchased JUST the bus tours…. ugh! A quick trip back to the hotel room and voila – we were back on track, if slightly delayed. Of course, with the ‘tight’ time schedule that we don’t have (because we’re on vacation) it was no big deal and we adjusted easily.

We walked down to the yellow bus kiosk in Praça da Liberdade to collect our tickets. The woman working the kiosk was very helpful, providing us with maps and showing us an easy way to take advantage of the package we purchased. And it fit in nicely with our original plan. So we were off to grab the tram line 1, which had a stop right across the street. When we found the stop, we checked the time and had about twenty minutes until the tram arrived. So we trouped up the street and back. Then we waited another half hour. Just as we were about to give up, we saw the tram come around the corner. And when we saw a delivery driver with his hazard lights flashing parked right in front of the tram, we quickly grasped the reason for the delay. As the tram uses the street, cars that park on or near the tracks can really interfere with an otherwise smooth operation. Finally, we were on the tram.  

The trams began service in 1872 with the “American Cars”. The cars remind us of other trams we have seen in the States. Currently, there are three lines available to cart one’s tuchus up and down the hills of the historic region of Porto (line 22 and 18) and along the Douro river (line 1). We opted for Lines 1 and 22. The cars really attest to the craftsmanship put into them. The mix of intricate metal and woodwork combine with the period electric technology have a way of transporting you back in time as well as throughout the city.  

On the tram, we passed many of the same sights we’ve seen (including our hotel, the Legendary Porto Hotel) near Praça Batalha. Line 22 circuit takes about twenty minutes to complete and terminates adjacent to the upper end of the funicular. So we jumped on and took it down to the Douro. We probably should have taken the funicular up the mountain… but hey, stairs are stairs and a ride is a ride!

Once we got down to the river, we walked along the Douro until we found the line 1 Tram. Line 1 carried us along the Douro out toward the ocean. It also passed within inches of dining tourists, parked cars, and people along the way. But the driver deftly avoided accident and delivered us to the end of the line. With the tram being as busy as it was, we decided to take the opportunity to walk around before making the return trip.

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As we started walking, we immediately found a park, Jardim do Passeio Alegre. As we walked through the park, we thought we saw a roundabout that we visited on our bus tour and decided to head that way. It turns out that the Jardim do Passeio Alegre is at the mouth of the Douro. And we were at the Atlantic Ocean. A fog was moving in, but we walked out to the Farolins da Barra do Douro, which is a seawall with a lighthouse at the end. We found many opportunities for photos… and we took them. On our trek back from the lighthouse, we decided to go stick our toes in the Atlantic. Just in case you are curious – yes, it was cold! The temperature didn’t seem to stop the locals, though. And I’m confident it would be refreshing if the fog weren’t providing a nice shade. After dipping our toes, we decided to head back. We caught the tram back and tried to get some photos of the riverside.

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After our return tram trip, we headed for the Majestic Café on Rua Santa Catarina to get dinner. Per our  bus tour commentary yesterday, the Majestic Café opened in 1921 and is decorated in Art Nouveau. When we arrived, the outside tables were full and there was a line in the street. We pondered for a moment returning later but decided to wait. Within five minutes we were seated. Yay!

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After a few minutes of figuring out how to access their online menu without the convenience of internet access on our phones, we were able to order. Donna decided on Magret de Pato Perfumado c/ vinho do Porto Tawny Majestic 10 Anos (duck with port sauce). And Kevin had the Filetes de Robalinho Grelhados (bass). We asked our waitress, Rita, to recommend wine to accompany our meals. And then, the most amazing meal (and that’s saying something considering the quality of all the food here) we’ve had since our arrival. From the first taste of bread with tuna tartare, to the last bite of the Rabanada Majestic dessert (Majestic French Toast), our reaction was, “OH… MY… GOD!” (usually followed by, “I KNOW, RIGHT?”). Mad props to Rita! She made the dining experience for us – and she even snuck in a free glass of 10 year Majestic Tawny Porto for us to enjoy along with the Rabanada.

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After dinner, the choice was to fall victim to the ensuing food coma, or walk it off a little. So we made our way up the shopping district (after all what’s a few more steps?). And when we got to the end, we looked up the street, and decided to head for the greenery a few blocks away, continuing the ascent! In very short order, we found ourselves sitting on a bench in the Jardim do Marques de Pombal in an area of Porto known as Bonfim. After a brief rest, we trekked back to the hotel. As we came within a block, Donna mentioned she was at more than 22,000 steps for the day. But we had been all over and experienced some wonderful Porto experiences. A fabulous day indeed!

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